Friday, August 15, 2014

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #15: The Great Outdoors (part Two)

For my second entry for the Great Outdoors challenge I made a red wool version of Simplicity 4366.
I love Ike jackets and I wanted one of my own for a while but then I found the red wool and decided that I would pay homage to the Ike jacket but make it my own. I have to give credit to Tasha from By Gum By Golly for starting the sewing bug for the jacket. Tahsa made a great 1940's jacket for Rochelle's Sew for Victory last year (2013) in a wonderful green fabric. From the moment I saw the jacket I knew I had to make one and here it is. The shoulders are gathered into a yoke and the waist of the jacket is gathered into a waistband. The sleeves are gathered at the wrist and finished with a cuff that buttons. The buttons are self covered and the red wool cooperated in waves that Murphy's buttons couldn't dream of doing.
The pattern called for self made shoulder pads but instead of stuffing them I used two layers of crinoline. The crinoline made the jackets shoulders keep their shape but don't make me look like a linebacker (which I appreciate). The Jacket is also fully lined; the pattern didn't call for it but I knew I wanted it lined because of the wool. I had to adjust the facing piece because of the change but that was a quick fix. For all of the buttonholes I used my grandmothers Singer 9134 which is cranky but works most of the time. I added the pockets to the front, they're from Colette Pattern's blog Coletterie and can be found here. For attaching the pockets I had to wing it since I don't have the original Colette pattern the pockets actually go to.

The Scoop:


Fabric: Red Tango Wool and Medieval Blue Lining
Pattern: Simplicity 4366
Year: 1940's if anyone knows the specific date I would be grateful
Notions: 9 self covered buttons
First worn?: Only around the house, it's not cool enough outside to wear wool
Make again?: Yes but the peplum version in green corduroy with flannel lining

Total cost: Pattern $12 but I'll say $6 because there's a skirt pattern with the jacket, Wool Fabric $19.24, Lining $9.98, Self Covered Button Kit $5.99 so total $41.21

Thursday, August 14, 2014

Birthday Surprise!

So Mummum's birthday was on Sunday and in celebration we're running a 25% off coupon in the Etsy shop. Just enter BIRTHDAYSURPRISE at checkout!

Picture credit: http://www.acuteaday.com/blog/category/hedgehog/

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Ohh the Irony and Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #15: The Great Ooutdoors

So I found this little skirt in Make and Mend for Victory (Downloadable here) and made it up over three days. The booklet was published in 1942 by The Spool Cotton Company. To make the skirt you need 5 bandannas. You sew 4 of them together leaving a 7" long opening on one seam for snap closures. Then you cut the waistband from the 5th bandanna. I took a 1/2" seam on sewing everything together because in my downloaded copy the seam allowance was missing, as was the width of the waistband which I made an 1 1/2". You then gather the skirt into the waistband. The directions say that you can close the skirt with ties on the waistband but I decided to close it with a wooden button instead (Belle Button-Natural Wood Burnout 18Mm from Joanns if you're interested)

The booklet also has instructions for a top to go with the skirt and that is next on my sewing table once I finish my Red Ike Jacket. The buttonhole on the skirt is done with my grandmothers Singer 9134 which does a one step buttonhole. The buttonhole didn't come out perfect but I think it had to do with how much the skirt is gather into the waistband. The irony part comes from the fact that it's raining outside today so I had to take pictures on Audrey, my dress form.

The Scoop:

Fabric: 5 Pink Batik Bandannas from Joann Fabrics
Pattern: Make and Mend for Victory Booklet
Year: 1942
Notions: Snaps and a Button
Hours: 3 days off and on
First worn?: Not yet, it's raining out
Make again?: Maybe not for me but my grandmother has been eyeing it up so perhaps one for her

Total cost: Pattern: Free download, Bandannas: $12.95, Buttons: all 3 cost $2.96 (yay 50% off) but since I only used one we'll say $.99, and the snaps came from my stash. Total: $13.94


Monday, August 11, 2014

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #14: Paisley & Plaid


Ok so the challenge was due on August 1st.....10 days late isn't tooo bad. My entry to HSF is a 1939 Purple Plaid Brushed Cotton Flannel Dress. I've dubbed it the "Secretary Dress" it's justDuBarry 2347B made with the long sleeves ( I LOVE the darts on the sleeves!). I made the short sleeve version last year. This time around I took a 1/2" out of the waist and went with regular machine made buttonholes instead of bound button holes. The skirt is lined with a poly/cotton lining but I didn't line the bodice because I would rather feel the flannel next to my skin than lining material. Matching the plaid was also a challenge on the dress but overall I'm very pleased with the way it came out. This dress matches my favorite pair of shoes which was part of the allure in making the dress but he hunt is still on for  proper purple stocking.
The belt I made from a 1950's self covering buckle kit that I found on Etsy. This was my first time making a belt but I had fun with it. The fabric is just a solid purple flannel that you cut 3 times wider than the belt and fold so there are no exposed raw edges. The fun part came when I had to put the grommets in because at that point I realized I did not have an awl so I scurried out to JoAnn's to buy one and then came back to finish the belt.
The prong was the most difficult part and I'm still not 100% satisfied with it but the belt works and stays where it's supposed to. I'm thinking of making some belt loops on the dress to keep the back and sides from shifting around. 
All the dress needs now is a tie!





The Scoop:


Fabric: Purple Plaid Brushed Cotton Flannel from their Plaiditude Collection
Pattern: DuBarry 2347B
Year: 1939
Notions: Zipper and 5 Buttons
Hours: I didn't keep track
First worn?: Not yet, it's too warm out!
Make again?: I'm not sure. I like the style but I might find something else I like more

Total cost: Pattern $7 (but I've already used it so it doesn't count) Fabric $20, Lining $5.08, Buttons $5.18 and Zipper $1.49 Belt Kit $4.50 Belt Fabric $.45 Total coming to $36.70

Etsy Sale!

Hello Folks!

My grandmother and I have put together an Etsy shop and we're running a 15% off sale at the moment. Just enter FACEBOOK14 during checkout. We have Fabric, Sewing Patterns and Vintage Jewelry so come check us out at https://www.etsy.com/shop/Chassy19

And Just because they're adorable have a hedgehog!
Photo Credit goes to http://www.chicagonow.com/wild-wisdom/2013/11/from-the-hedgehog-files/

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Murphy's Law Hat and a surprise HSF

I've made a cap and a headscarf but never a proper hat until now. The pattern was from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library a reproduction of Simplicity 1353 dated 1934. I made the caplet from this pattern for my first Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge.  Incidentally Murphy also qualifies for the Historical Sew Fortnightly for Challenge #13: Under $10.
The fabric is a raspberry colored suiting from Joann's that I made my 1936 Suit from (that I haven't posted about yet. oops.)
The lining is also from that suit and is just a poly/cotton mix.
 This was my first time working with crinoline and also using self covered buttons. The Self covered buttons were good practice for what I actually bought the kit for, a Frankensteined Ike Jacket, because I found out a ball pein hammer works better than the little blue plastic setter the kit gives you.  But let's get back to the fact that this hat fought me the whole time I was making it. The fabric argued with me, the directions tricked me, I wasted at least 4 button backs, and I sewed every seam at least twice. Everything that could have gone wrong did go wrong.  One other fix I had to do was add a pipe cleaner to one of the seams because it kept wanting to collapse for some reason but I fixed that too. But I kept hacking away at it and now I have a very stylish hat named Murphy.




The Challenge: # 13 Under $10

Fabric: Raspberry Colored Suiting Fabric and Purple poly/cotton lining.

Pattern: Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1930 Ladies Hat, Gloves, Purse and Collar Ensemble a reproduction of Simplicity 1353

Year: 1934

Notions: 4 Self Covered buttons

Hours to complete: About a week of on/off sewing

First worn: Not yet. 

Total cost: Pattern $15 but since it has four items I'm saying the pattern for the hat cost $3.75, Crinoline was $2.99, Fabric scraps from stash, Self Covered Buttons free, and thread was also from my  stash. So Murphy cost $6.74

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

HSF Challenge 3: Pink














I finished this one early as I didn't do challenge two; while I'm away at school I figure I'll try to do the half marathon and if I'm luck over summer I can do all of the challenges. The third challenge in the 2014 Historical Sew Fortnightly is due February 15th and the challenge is pink. Awhile ago I bought some pink jersey fabric for McCall 1358,
the pattern is from 1947and featured in McCalls Style News for September of that year. My pattern is not the colored version at the botton, I was looking into that and it seems patterns printed in Australia and New Zealand sometimes did not have colored envelopes. Even though the cutoff for the HSF is 1945 I still think this project can count.

During the war women used headscarves like this to keep their hair away from machinery, so I thought this style could have been used during the war and was kept on after it. But then I could be completely off base. This project was two firsts for me. 1) This is the first time I've sewn with knit jersey.  2) This is the first completely hand-sewn project since I was around 6. I completed this over three days but if you are using a machine I think this could be a great instant gratification kind of project. I stitched a line with dark thread so I would know where i needed to turn the seam.
Then I ironed on that line and folded the raw edge  under and did a hem stitch to sew it down. The trim is just three pieces of fabric braided together without finishing those edges. I had to redo the braid three times till I was happy with it. I apologize for the grainy pictures, I had to use my school's ipad to take the picture because I stupidly forgot my camera at home.

The Challenge: # 3 Pink

Fabric: Raspberry colored Jersey
Pattern: McCall 1358 

Year: 1947 but I think it would work for the war years as well

Notions: none

Hours to complete: 3 days with one intense day of hand-sewing and two of cutting and doing the trim.

First worn: Right when I finished it to see how it looked and then for pictures 

Total cost: When I get home I can figure this one out