Thursday, September 1, 2016

Jane Eyre Dress

So here is my secret announcement..... I'm going to Costume College 2017! I'm super excited and have everything planned out in a little journal that is pasted with fabric and trim options, original inspirations, and pattern choices. I'll keep everyone updated as I go, but for now I'm working on my Jane Eyre costume. "I'll be married in this lilac gingham: you may make a dressing-gown for yourself out of the pearl-grey silk, and an infinite series of waistcoats out of the black satin." That is the only line in the book referencing her lilac gingham dress. Since there isn't anything else to go on I am starting with Truly Victorian's 1845 German Day Dress pattern. I might change it to look more like this dress from the Amsterdam Museum but I haven't decided yet. My fabric is 100% cotton Wide Width 1/16 in.Gingham Check Purple from Fabric.com. 




Obviously underclothing is in order as I've never sewn anything from this period before. I am taking my shift, drawers petticoats, bum pad and pocket from the Workwoman's Guide. My stays are coming from Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen. I am using the Rural Corded Corset Pattern ( I was going to use the Corded Taffeta Corset Pattern but that one has bust and hip gores and as this is my first pair of stays ever! I am going to go with the simpler design.) Also can I just protest Salen's use of Corset for her stays dating from the 18th Century to the mid 19th Century? Anyway, moving on..... I bought a Brushed Twill in Tan for the outside of the stays, it is a little darker that I would have liked but I was thinking of these stays from the MET. (Not that I'm going to do the embroidery because those are skills I don't have, though a little something might be nice but I'm not planning on it.)


Back of  Woman's Corset (Stays) 
England, 1830-1840 LACMA

And the inner layer will be of left over Rockland 45" Cotton Duck Natural that I used to interline my Ravenclaw Renaissance bodice. I know linen in more period to line stays but it is also more expensive and using part of the Stash is a good thing. The one this I know I want to add is fan lacing. Fan lacing makes lacing ones stays or corset easier if you are alone. (If only I had some servants to dress me, but this would actually drive me insane so it's best that I don't have someone to do that.) The rest of the undergarments are going to be made out of  Muslin. Happily my insanity coincides with the Historical Sew Monthly's October Challenge: Heros. Since Jane Eyre is one of my literary heros I can hopefully use this outfit for the Challenge, Halloween and Costume College. Oh and before I forget to mention it, my shoes will be American' Duchess' Gettysburg Victorian Side-Lace Boots.
"Gettysburg" Victorian Side-Lace Boots (1830-1860s)I have the Gettysburgs and two other pairs of shoes for Costume College on layaway (Thank You Bastille Day Sale) so I might not have them for Halloween but that's not going to worry me at all. In addition I will need stockings, a day cap and a bonnet. I can pattern the day cap and bonnet from the Workwoman's Guide but I also have another bonnet diagram that I might use instead. I may also need cuffs and a collar or chemisette for the dress depending on which style I go with


Monday, August 29, 2016

Ravenclaw Renaissance Pt. 2

2016-08-28 14.21.36.jpg
The purse is attached to a belt under the doublet
Sewing takes so much more time when the sewing machine doesn't like you and you insist on hand finishing. Smock is machine sewn on the long seams and then hand finished, same with the bodice and skirt. The partlet is almost completely hand sewn except for the piecing and the collar because of the ruffle.I know everyone raves about Margo's patterns but really I'm feeling a little let down. The instructions are not all that clear in some areas and even reference the Lady's Wardrobe pattern at one point but oh well, you live and you learn. Like I said in my first post the bodice and skirt are linen the shift and partlet are a cotton/linen blend, I made sleeves for the outfit but it was just too hot to wear them. I would have pinned them on because I didn't have time to add points but I've seen pictures with women's sleeve just pinned on so I would have been ok.
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Me with one of the lovely workers at the Faire
2016-08-28 15.06.49.jpgI didn't put pocket slits in the skirt when I should have so I'll remember that for the next outfit I make. But I did make an awesome purse for myself with the Tudor Rose on it. The inspiration came at midnight before the event..... I didn't go to bed until 2:30 am the morning of; I had a great time but I crashed when we got home. I also purchased a Dragon from Imaginarium Galleries, I've waited over 6 years for this. He does not have a name yet, but I am sure that will change soon.
So what did I learn while wearing the outfit? I need to fix the shift, the opening is too big so I am going to put a strip of linen in to fix the problem of it being to open at the bosom. If I make another shift it will be a high necked one so I don't have to wrangle the partlet into submission over the course of the day as well. Also it will be out of finer material as well. The skirt was so much fun to wear and twirl in plus it was super comfy. I will however need an under petticoat (I know the horror that I didn't make one) because the skirt got caught around my ankles on occasion. This may be because of the stockings I was wearing.... Please excuse the funny face, my grandmother took the picture right as I was saying SOCKS with some enthusiasm. I know they aren't period but they were the only ones I had that would work. I am planning on getting more appropriate stockings in the near future. The picture also shows my wonderful shoes from American Duchess! So what about the boyfriend you might ask? Well he ended up not being able to come with me so his outfit is uncompleted and it waiting for us to decide on if we are going to the Faire in Santa Fe or not so I can get his outfit put together.


Thursday, July 21, 2016

Ravenclaw Renaissance

Long time no post. So lots have happened since the last post, a break up, I graduated from undergrad, moved to Santa Fe, started grad school, started another relationship, finished my first year of grad school and now I'm looking to sew again. The Renn Faire is going on back at home soon and I'm going home for vacation. So I started planning a Ravenclaw inspired Renaissance outfit. I bought Marrgo Anderson's Working Woman's Pattern
Image result for working women margo anderson
I'm done with the main seams of the smock so that just needs hand finished. The partlet needs the collar put on and then the rest needs to be started. I'm making the skirt and flat cap in midnight blue linen and the bodice & sleeves in silver linen. The new boyfriend is coming home with me and so I bough Margo's Men's pattern as well.
MA004 - The Elizabethan Gentleman's Wardrobe Sewing Pattern by Margo Anderson
His doublet and sleeves are going to be gold twill and his Venitian's will be midnight blue but twill instead of linen. His shirt is in process and he's still deciding on if he wants a flat cap or tall hat. My other purchase for this outfit was a pair of American Duchess Virginia Renaissance Shoes. They were on sale and the last pair was my size so I had to grab them up. 
Photos will follow as I get pieces done.

Sunday, August 16, 2015

Labor Day Etsy Sale


Just in time for Labor Day! Use the coupon code LABORDAY40 for 40% off off your order until September 8th! Go to  https://www.etsy.com/shop/Chassy19 and get great deals on jewelry, fabris, patterns, and more to start the up coming school year off right! Let us know if you would like fast shipping and we'll send you a shipping quote for all of those last minute gifts!

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

A Vest to Save the Day

Remember the "Secretary Dress" I made?


I mentioned previously I didn't like the dress as is and seriously thought of hacking it up and maybe just leaving it as a skirt. I went on the hunt for a 1930's vest pattern.... not an easy task. There was one from Eva Dress but that was too fancy and anything else was a knitting pattern, so time to bend the rules. I then went looking for a 1940's vest pattern. I found a few but none that really jumped out. I did find Simplicity 3638, a jerkin pattern from the 1940's.


So I did some more research and found Simplicity 2286, a jerkin from the 1930's.

However the 1940's pattern won because of price. I figured I could do some alterations to make it look more 30's ish. On this etsy shopping trip I also found New York Gold Seal 322 and Advance 2023.


I've been waiting for Advance 2023 for a while and I really liked the blouse and vest from the Gold Seal pattern. While my grandmother and I were a Joanns picking out the fabric she said that the jerkin pattern wouldn't work because of the gathers in the skirt. Well, I was bummed because I really wanted to try that pattern out but oh well I'll figure something out with it. Instead I went with the vest and even though it looks like a late 40's vest I'll suck it up if it makes my plaid dress less like a plaid monster. The vest went together very easily and even sizing up the pattern was a breeze. This is a great instant gratification project and if you have the proper size bias tape and do the finishing on the machine it'll go even faster. I chose to hand finish all of the seams and the facings so it took me a bit longer. After one minor snafu with the buttonhole function on my grandmother's machine I had a finished vest! And it looked great until I noticed the spacing on my buttonholes...... equally spaced in between them but not at the top and bottom. Too late to fix that error, but a little snap at the top fixed the problem. I had a hard time figuring the buttons out because the pattern didn't give any indication about where to put the buttons either on the pattern or in the instructions. 


I'm still not 100% sold on the outfit but I'm more willing to wear it and see what I think. I also have enough material left for a tie so stay tuned to see when it happens.

The Scoop

Fabric:  Blackberry 
Sew Classic Bottomweight Wrinklease Fabric


Pattern: New York Gold Seal 322

Year: 1940's

Notions: 4 LaMode buttons (style 26302), a snap, and a pack of bias tape

First worn: just for pictures

Total cost: The pattern was $7 but it includes three pieces so lets say $2.33 for the vest, the bias tape was from the stash, $2.50 for the buttons and all the fabric cost $6.65 but I only used about half so the total comes to around $8.16

Monday, January 12, 2015

Haslam System of Dresscutting: Part One Plus HSM #1


Pintrest is a wonderful invention but it can also be a pain. I found a great 1940's tap pants pattern but did know  where it came from or how it went together.
I found another copy of the picture at http://buttons-and-bobbins.blogspot.com/ and through Ginny I found the Haslam System of Dresscutting. I was still stumped though because I couldn't figure out the gusset. I hoped over to the Historical Sew Fortnightly Facebook page and asked for help. In no time I got my answer; cut the gusset on the fold..... duh. So then I started to draft the pattern. I was lucky as this pattern doesn't require the special ruler that is part of the system. However the ruler can be found here. You have to add seam allowances so I added a 1/2 seam on the gusset and side of the pattern (though not the side on the fold) and then  went to work on putting it together. 

I then went looking for a bra pattern to match. Instead I stumbled upon the whole book (Book #9) on Etsy. At first I found robe pattern that my grandmother really liked instead of a bra pattern, but it's a lingerie book it had to have a bra in there somewhere; so we went Dutch and split the cost of the book. Once my download arrived I found 2 bra patterns. Now I just have pick which one I want and sew it up! This book also contains the page above as well as some other pages I've seen floating around the web.

 I made the tap pants with two 100% cotton fabrics, one red & cream dot and the other navy. I drafted a seperate pointed yoke from some instructions to make a pair of pleated shorts for the period so I could use the red and cream dot! The final product was wonderfully hillarious.
All of the seams are machine sewn but finished by hand; one problem through.... they're a tiny bit too big. I recently got my wisdom teeth taken out and lost some weight so I don't know if it's just the weight loss or I messed up somewhere in drafting. I used a hook and eye to secure the top and once my weight stabilizes again I'll put the buttons in, but I might have to take out the placket and tweak some other things. I don't plan on making these again, the gusset was just too fussy without any instructions. I think part of the problem was that the tap pants are supposed to be cut on the bias and I didn't have enough fabric to do so, so maybe the gusset wouldn't be so fussy then.

Such a simple bit of drafting that makes these fabulous!

Hand finished hem =]

This project also counts for the Historical Sew Monthly as Challenge #1: Foundations. Yay for completing the first project with time to spare! (I mean it could also count as Challenge #2: Blue as well but I'm not going to count it as such unless I am unsuccessful in finishing my other project)

The Scoop

The Challenge: # 1 Foundations

Fabric: 100% Cotton in Navy and 100% Cotton Red & Cream Dot


Pattern: Haslam System of Dresscutting book 9 figure 22


Year: 1940's


Notions: One Hook and Eye (soon to be replaced with buttons)

First worn: Not yet, I plan on trying the out with my  1940's overalls!

Total cost: The pattern was free from pintrest, I spent around $6 on fabric between both types, and the hook and eye was from the stash so fabric was all I had to buy and I got both on sale so not too shabby!

Sunday, January 4, 2015

2014 Round Up

So for the first time I was actually able to complete some challenges for the 2014 Historical Sew Fortnightly. I completed 7 out of the 24 challenges (but 8 items), which is pretty great for me considering I'm away at school and can't bring my sewing machine with me.

For Challenge 1 (Make Do and Mend) I made a 1934 caplet from scrap fabric I had left over from my 1937 ballerina skirt. I've worn both a couple times now and love them; plus I've gotten a few compliments on the caplet and that's always nice.

For Challenge 3 (Pink) I cheated and made my 1947 headscarf. I haven't warn it since but I'm hoping I can use it eventually.

For Challenge 13 (Under $10) I made a hat and named him Murphy. Murphy was made from all scrap material so the only thing I had to pay for was the crinoline, and the pattern which together cost $6.74. But Murphy was not an easy project as his name implies. He matches my 1938 suit that I made but I haven't had a chance to blog about that because I don't have any good pictures.

Challenge 14 (Plaid and Paisley) was 10 days late but who's counting? I made a purple plaid 1939 dress from the same pattern as my Operation Surprise dress. I haven't worn the dress yet, first I needed tights, which I've since found but then I tried it on and didn't like it......... at all. It's too much plaid for me even with the solid belt. So I set the dress aside and waited for inspiration that didn't involve hacking the dress into a skirt instead. I found the answer in a vest pattern. I'm waiting for the pattern to arrive but when it does I'm going to make a solid vest to break up the plaid and see how it goes. Fingers crossed!

For Challenge 15 (The Great Outdoors) I made two things. The first was a skirt based on the pattern from the Make Do and Mend booklet. The skirt is constructed from 5 bandannas and closes with a button and snaps in the back, I think I'm going to replace the snaps with a zipper but we'll see. The second item I made (and the one that I'm most proud of for the year) is my red wool Ike inspired jacket. I added a lining to the jacket, made self covered buttons, and used crinoline for the shoulder pads. I love love love this jacket and have gotten a few chances to wear it. When anyone finds out that I made it they look impressed and I have to say I get a huge smile on my face when someone compliments me on it.


For Challenge 18 (Poetry) I made a completely hand stitched 18th Century Pocket. I used linen scraps from test swatches and plain linen for the back. I don't have to attached to a waist strap yet because I haven't finished (read started) my 1760's stays yet so I'm not sure what my waist measurement will be in those yet.

And my final Challenge of the year was 22 (Gentleman) was a pair of 1940's overalls. The pattern is from Wearing History and they were very easy to sew. I wore them on Halloween and went as a Women's Land Army worker from the Crop Corps, I  even made my own armband!

Outside of the challenges I also made a playsuit skit, 1940's slacks, a silver blouse from Simplicity 3688, and my Ballerina Skirt. I started Simplicity 0260 in a polka dot fabric, my 1770's shift (handsewn) and I also started another jacket from Simplicity 4366 but this time with the peplum and in dark olive corduroy!

So looking forward to Historical Sew Monthly I have plans for at least 4 of the 12 Challenges but who knows how it'll all go in the end, I just know I'm going to give it my best shot!