Monday, January 12, 2015

Haslam System of Dresscutting: Part One Plus HSM #1

Pintrest is a wonderful invention but it can also be a pain. I found a great 1940's tap pants pattern but did know  where it came from or how it went together.
I found another copy of the picture at and through Ginny I found the Haslam System of Dresscutting. I was still stumped though because I couldn't figure out the gusset. I hoped over to the Historical Sew Fortnightly Facebook page and asked for help. In no time I got my answer; cut the gusset on the fold..... duh. So then I started to draft the pattern. I was lucky as this pattern doesn't require the special ruler that is part of the system. However the ruler can be found here. You have to add seam allowances so I added a 1/2 seam on the gusset and side of the pattern (though not the side on the fold) and then  went to work on putting it together. 

I then went looking for a bra pattern to match. Instead I stumbled upon the whole book (Book #9) on Etsy. At first I found robe pattern that my grandmother really liked instead of a bra pattern, but it's a lingerie book it had to have a bra in there somewhere; so we went Dutch and split the cost of the book. Once my download arrived I found 2 bra patterns. Now I just have pick which one I want and sew it up! This book also contains the page above as well as some other pages I've seen floating around the web.

 I made the tap pants with two 100% cotton fabrics, one red & cream dot and the other navy. I drafted a seperate pointed yoke from some instructions to make a pair of pleated shorts for the period so I could use the red and cream dot! The final product was wonderfully hillarious.
All of the seams are machine sewn but finished by hand; one problem through.... they're a tiny bit too big. I recently got my wisdom teeth taken out and lost some weight so I don't know if it's just the weight loss or I messed up somewhere in drafting. I used a hook and eye to secure the top and once my weight stabilizes again I'll put the buttons in, but I might have to take out the placket and tweak some other things. I don't plan on making these again, the gusset was just too fussy without any instructions. I think part of the problem was that the tap pants are supposed to be cut on the bias and I didn't have enough fabric to do so, so maybe the gusset wouldn't be so fussy then.

Such a simple bit of drafting that makes these fabulous!

Hand finished hem =]

This project also counts for the Historical Sew Monthly as Challenge #1: Foundations. Yay for completing the first project with time to spare! (I mean it could also count as Challenge #2: Blue as well but I'm not going to count it as such unless I am unsuccessful in finishing my other project)

The Scoop

The Challenge: # 1 Foundations

Fabric: 100% Cotton in Navy and 100% Cotton Red & Cream Dot

Pattern: Haslam System of Dresscutting book 9 figure 22

Year: 1940's

Notions: One Hook and Eye (soon to be replaced with buttons)

First worn: Not yet, I plan on trying the out with my  1940's overalls!

Total cost: The pattern was free from pintrest, I spent around $6 on fabric between both types, and the hook and eye was from the stash so fabric was all I had to buy and I got both on sale so not too shabby!

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