Tappity Tap Pants

For the Historical Sew Monthly Challenge for March:  Buttons and Fastenings I made a pair of 1930's tap pants. I used Simplicity Pattern 8510 and a few things surprised me. A: the yoke isn't really a yoke, it's an additional piece that is top stitched down. B: I flat felled all the inside seams by hand because I used linen and I didn't want it to fray. C: with the yoked version putting the buttons holes in was difficult because there were six layers of fabric to go through at some spots. If you used a thinner silk or rayon I'm sure this wouldn't be a problem. I used a zig zag stitch to do the buttonholes instead of a buttonhole stitch because my buttonhole doesn't like me. Abby posted (http://stay-ingalive.blogspot.com/2018/04/1880s-fundy-undies-petticoat-and-corset.html) about using a zig zag stitch instead of a button foot as well. I'm not sure about posting me wearing them but my Valentine's Bear was happy to pose for me.  

Just the Facts:

What the item is: 1930’s tap pants

Material: linen

Pattern:Simplicity Pattern 8510 Misses' Vintage Brassiere and Panties view B with the yoke

Year: 1930’s

Notions: 4 metal buttons

How historically accurate is it? I’d say 95%. It’s a mix of machine and hand sewing with zig zag button holes. I’m not sure linen would have been used for tap pants but they are comfortable

Hours to complete: Four evenings of sewing

First worn: just to check the button positions

Total cost: linen remnant was 8, buttons 2 and thread was in my stash so 10.50 with some linen left over for a small project.

A Vest to Save the Day

Remember the "Secretary Dress" I made?

I mentioned previously I didn't like the dress as is and seriously thought of hacking it up and maybe just leaving it as a skirt. I went on the hunt for a 1930's vest pattern.... not an easy task. There was one from Eva Dress but that was too fancy and anything else was a knitting pattern, so time to bend the rules. I then went looking for a 1940's vest pattern. I found a few but none that really jumped out. I did find Simplicity 3638, a jerkin pattern from the 1940's.

So I did some more research and found Simplicity 2286, a jerkin from the 1930's.

However the 1940's pattern won because of price. I figured I could do some alterations to make it look more 30's ish. On this etsy shopping trip I also found New York Gold Seal 322 and Advance 2023.

I've been waiting for Advance 2023 for a while and I really liked the blouse and vest from the Gold Seal pattern. While my grandmother and I were a Joanns picking out the fabric she said that the jerkin pattern wouldn't work because of the gathers in the skirt. Well, I was bummed because I really wanted to try that pattern out but oh well I'll figure something out with it. Instead I went with the vest and even though it looks like a late 40's vest I'll suck it up if it makes my plaid dress less like a plaid monster. The vest went together very easily and even sizing up the pattern was a breeze. This is a great instant gratification project and if you have the proper size bias tape and do the finishing on the machine it'll go even faster. I chose to hand finish all of the seams and the facings so it took me a bit longer. After one minor snafu with the buttonhole function on my grandmother's machine I had a finished vest! And it looked great until I noticed the spacing on my buttonholes...... equally spaced in between them but not at the top and bottom. Too late to fix that error, but a little snap at the top fixed the problem. I had a hard time figuring the buttons out because the pattern didn't give any indication about where to put the buttons either on the pattern or in the instructions. 

I'm still not 100% sold on the outfit but I'm more willing to wear it and see what I think. I also have enough material left for a tie so stay tuned to see when it happens.

The Scoop

Fabric:  Blackberry Sew Classic Bottomweight Wrinklease Fabric

Pattern: New York Gold Seal 322

Year: 1940's

Notions: 4 LaMode buttons (style 26302), a snap, and a pack of bias tape

First worn: just for pictures

Total cost: The pattern was $7 but it includes three pieces so lets say $2.33 for the vest, the bias tape was from the stash, $2.50 for the buttons and all the fabric cost $6.65 but I only used about half so the total comes to around $8.16

2014 Round Up

So for the first time I was actually able to complete some challenges for the 2014 Historical Sew Fortnightly. I completed 7 out of the 24 challenges (but 8 items), which is pretty great for me considering I'm away at school and can't bring my sewing machine with me.

For Challenge 1 (Make Do and Mend) I made a 1934 caplet from scrap fabric I had left over from my 1937 ballerina skirt. I've worn both a couple times now and love them; plus I've gotten a few compliments on the caplet and that's always nice.

For Challenge 3 (Pink) I cheated and made my 1947 headscarf. I haven't warn it since but I'm hoping I can use it eventually.

For Challenge 13 (Under $10) I made a hat and named him Murphy. Murphy was made from all scrap material so the only thing I had to pay for was the crinoline, and the pattern which together cost $6.74. But Murphy was not an easy project as his name implies. He matches my 1938 suit that I made but I haven't had a chance to blog about that because I don't have any good pictures.

Challenge 14 (Plaid and Paisley) was 10 days late but who's counting? I made a purple plaid 1939 dress from the same pattern as my Operation Surprise dress. I haven't worn the dress yet, first I needed tights, which I've since found but then I tried it on and didn't like it......... at all. It's too much plaid for me even with the solid belt. So I set the dress aside and waited for inspiration that didn't involve hacking the dress into a skirt instead. I found the answer in a vest pattern. I'm waiting for the pattern to arrive but when it does I'm going to make a solid vest to break up the plaid and see how it goes. Fingers crossed!

For Challenge 15 (The Great Outdoors) I made two things. The first was a skirt based on the pattern from the Make Do and Mend booklet. The skirt is constructed from 5 bandannas and closes with a button and snaps in the back, I think I'm going to replace the snaps with a zipper but we'll see. The second item I made (and the one that I'm most proud of for the year) is my red wool Ike inspired jacket. I added a lining to the jacket, made self covered buttons, and used crinoline for the shoulder pads. I love love love this jacket and have gotten a few chances to wear it. When anyone finds out that I made it they look impressed and I have to say I get a huge smile on my face when someone compliments me on it.

For Challenge 18 (Poetry) I made a completely hand stitched 18th Century Pocket. I used linen scraps from test swatches and plain linen for the back. I don't have to attached to a waist strap yet because I haven't finished (read started) my 1760's stays yet so I'm not sure what my waist measurement will be in those yet.

And my final Challenge of the year was 22 (Gentleman) was a pair of 1940's overalls. The pattern is from Wearing History and they were very easy to sew. I wore them on Halloween and went as a Women's Land Army worker from the Crop Corps, I  even made my own armband!

Outside of the challenges I also made a playsuit skit, 1940's slacks, a silver blouse from Simplicity 3688, and my Ballerina Skirt. I started Simplicity 0260 in a polka dot fabric, my 1770's shift (handsewn) and I also started another jacket from Simplicity 4366 but this time with the peplum and in dark olive corduroy!

So looking forward to Historical Sew Monthly I have plans for at least 4 of the 12 Challenges but who knows how it'll all go in the end, I just know I'm going to give it my best shot!

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #14: Paisley & Plaid

Ok so the challenge was due on August 1st.....10 days late isn't tooo bad. My entry to HSF is a 1939 Purple Plaid Brushed Cotton Flannel Dress. I've dubbed it the "Secretary Dress" it's justDuBarry 2347B made with the long sleeves ( I LOVE the darts on the sleeves!). I made the short sleeve version last year. This time around I took a 1/2" out of the waist and went with regular machine made buttonholes instead of bound button holes. The skirt is lined with a poly/cotton lining but I didn't line the bodice because I would rather feel the flannel next to my skin than lining material. Matching the plaid was also a challenge on the dress but overall I'm very pleased with the way it came out. This dress matches my favorite pair of shoes which was part of the allure in making the dress but the hunt is still on for  proper purple stocking. Found them! I hope to update the pictures the next time I wear the dress.

The belt I made from a 1950's self covering buckle kit that I found on Etsy. This was my first time making a belt but I had fun with it. The fabric is just a solid purple flannel that you cut 3 times wider than the belt and fold so there are no exposed raw edges. The fun part came when I had to put the grommets in because at that point I realized I did not have an awl so I scurried out to JoAnn's to buy one and then came back to finish the belt.

The prong was the most difficult part and I'm still not 100% satisfied with it but the belt works and stays where it's supposed to. I'm thinking of making some belt loops on the dress to keep the back and sides from shifting around. 
All the dress needs now is a tie!

The Scoop:

Fabric: Purple Plaid Brushed Cotton Flannel from their Plaiditude Collection

Pattern: DuBarry 2347B

Year: 1939

Notions: Zipper and 5 Buttons

Hours: I didn't keep track

First worn?: Not yet, it's too warm out!

Make again?: I'm not sure. I like the style but I might find something else I like more

Total cost: Pattern $7 (but I've already used it so it doesn't count) Fabric $20, Lining $5.08, Buttons $5.18 and Zipper $1.49 Belt Kit $4.50 Belt Fabric $.45 Total coming to $36.70

Murphy's Law Hat and a surprise HSF

I've made a cap and a headscarf but never a proper hat until now. The pattern was from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library a reproduction of Simplicity 1353 dated 1934. I made the caplet from this pattern for my first Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge.  Incidentally Murphy also qualifies for the Historical Sew Fortnightly for Challenge #13: Under $10.

The fabric is a raspberry colored suiting from Joann's that I made my 1936 Suit from (that I haven't posted about yet. oops.)

The lining is also from that suit and is just a poly/cotton mix. This was my first time working with crinoline and also using self covered buttons. The Self covered buttons were good practice for what I actually bought the kit for, a Frankensteined Ike Jacket, because I found out a ball pein hammer works better than the little blue plastic setter the kit gives you.  But let's get back to the fact that this hat fought me the whole time I was making it. The fabric argued with me, the directions tricked me, I wasted at least 4 button backs, and I sewed every seam at least twice. Everything that could have gone wrong did go wrong.  One other fix I had to do was add a pipe cleaner to one of the seams because it kept wanting to collapse for some reason but I fixed that too. But I kept hacking away at it and now I have a very stylish hat named Murphy.

The Challenge: # 13 Under $10

Fabric: Raspberry Colored Suiting Fabric and Purple poly/cotton lining.

Pattern: Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1930 Ladies Hat, Gloves, Purse and Collar Ensemble a reproduction of Simplicity 1353

Year: 1934

Notions: 4 Self Covered buttons

Hours to complete: About a week of on/off sewing

First worn: Not yet. 

Total cost: Pattern $15 but since it has four items I'm saying the pattern for the hat cost $3.75, Crinoline was $2.99, Fabric scraps from stash, Self Covered Buttons free, and thread was also from my  stash. So Murphy cost $6.74

My First Entry in the 2014 Historical Sew Fortnightly

So I decided to dive into the 2014 Historical Sew Fortnightly hosted by the wonderful Leimomi. 

She hosted the same event last year but most of the sewing I did fell outside of the dates for the challenges. This year the date has been extended to 1945, so my WW2 pattern stash can finally be put to work!  The first challenge was in spirit of the WW2 campaign for 'Make Do & Mend' a huge task for those on the home front in Europe and the US because of rationing. Ironically I chose a pattern that would have worked for last years challenge; a reprint of Simplicity 1353 dated 1934 from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library (Evadress.com also has a reprint of the pattern in a larger size, the one from VPLL is a medium) The pattern consists of a hat, collar, gloves, and a purse. I made the collar for this challenge from fabric left over from my 1937 skirt.

I had to cannibalize the scrap piece left to match the grainlines but it worked! I also lined the collar in some of the fashion fabric because of the reveres that would show the lining and also I wanted the front piece line in the flannel for warmth and stability. The other bits of lining came from my 1936 suit skirt  lining (again post to follow) but those grainlines don't match up because the word cannibalize doesn't even cover what I had to do to those scraps though I am proud to say I only had to piece together one section of the collar. This pattern is a good example of the "expectation and reality" of sewing because unless you are magic those points don't come out as pointy as the picture and the revers aren't quite as picturesque as the drawing, (till you press them within an inch of their lives and then tack them down.) But I am insanely in love with this piece and I do plan on making more.

The Challenge: # 1 Make Do & Mend

Fabric: 100% Brushed Cotton in a Blue and Black Herringbone pattern and Navy poly/cotton lining.

Pattern: Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1930 Ladies Hat, Gloves, Purse and Collar Ensemble a reproduction of Simplicity 1353

Year: 1934

Notions: One Button

Hours to complete: It took 4 days of on/off sewing

First worn: Not yet. Audrey had the pleasure though I do plan on wearing it for an upcoming lunch date.

Total cost: Pattern $15 but since it has four items I'm saying the pattern for the collar cost $3.75, Fabric from stash, Button and thread also from stash. So all in all it cost me $3.75 to make.

Blue Brushed Cotton Skirt

I was planning on submitting this skirt for Fall for Cotton sew along hosted by Rochelle at

http://luckylucille.com but because my tights kept sticking to the fabric it needed to be lined and the lining is not cotton so there goes my entry.The skirt itself is 100% Brushed Cotton in a Blue and Black Herringbone pattern. I used Pictorial Review Pattern 8898 from 1937 and made view 1 which is the Ballerina style 10 gored skirt. I finally got my serger working so all the seams are overlocked and I used bias tape and hem tape for the hems. You add belting to the top of the skirt instead of a waistband and I'm not sure how I feel about doing that because the belting is scratchy. Next time I think I might try and sandwich the belting in between the fashion fabric and the lining.  I don't know if you can tell from the picture but the drape is beautiful and the fabric is soft and made of warmz, plus it flairs when you twirl so obviously it's a winner. Also I finished this in September right before I left for England for my fall semester abroad and I didn't have any pictures of it finished before now.I will update pictures once it has a night out!

The Scoop:

Fabric: 100% Brushed Cotton in a Blue and Black Herringbone pattern Lining: Ice Blue poly/cotton

Pattern: Pictorial Review 8898

Year: 1937

Notions: Zipper, belting, hem tape

Hours: Hehehe my serger was misbehaving so it took a while

First worn?: Soon my pretty very soon........

Wear again?: Did I mention it flairs out when your twirl?

Make again?: I'd like to, I'm just not sure what fabric to do it in again

Total cost: Pattern $8.63 ($17.25 divided by 2 skirts), Fabric cotton was a gift and lining was $5.99, zipper $1.49, hem tape from stash, belting from stash so the skirt cost $16.11 to make. Plus I had enough fabric left to make another project......

Operation Suprise

Happy Independence Day Everyone!! (well now it's a bit late because I didn't get my picture up in time)

This year I decided to make a dress for the 4th. M was going to take me to Community Days to walk around and then Saturday are the fireworks but we watch them from the roof. I didn't tell M what I was making and only gave him hints over three days. I sent him a picture of the fabric, told him the pattern was from 1939 and then told him it was a dress. I used Du Barry 2347B from 1939  and made it with short sleeves. I love the dress. It's light and airy because of the seersucker fabric which was a blessing because it was sooo humid at the fair. I took 6" off the hem because I'm so short and I had to hack off almost 4" on the sleeves because they were too long. I will have to redo the buttons because I bought 5/8" buttons instead of 3/4" and it makes a huge difference with the bound buttonholes.  I went to Joann's to get the new buttons and because of their Independence Day sale I also walked away with a curved ruler that includes a French Curve and Hip curve plus instructions on how to alter patterns. The dress needed five bound buttonholes in the front and then it had a side zip too. To complete the outfit I wore a belt my grandmother gave me and my WW2 weekend hat with a navy sash tied around it. I love that hat, it is going to be my go to hat for everything I think. I have fabric to make this up again but with long sleeves and maybe it'll get done before I go to England for a semester.

The Scoop:

Fabric: I don't know the specifics but it was from JoAnn's and it's 100% Cotton I think it was in the shirting section

Pattern: DuBarry 2347B

Year: 1939

Notions: Zipper and 5 Buttons

Hours: Four days of off and on sewing

First worn?: July 4th 2013

Wear again?: Yes

Make again?: Yes, but I'm going to make it with long sleeves and in purple flannel but I'm sure I'll make it with short sleeves again it's such an easy style to wear

Total cost: Pattern $7 Fabric $12.12 First set of Buttons $1.24 Second set of Buttons $6.00 and Zipper $2.49 Total coming to $28.85