First Post Costume College 2018 Sewing Project

Post CoCo 18 I felt kinda down about my sewing skills. My ballgown didn't turn out as I was wanted and I kept seeing these amazing creations that I couldn't duplicate. But then I remembered something Kate said at CoCo and she said we were each just at a different point in our development. So it was kind of funny that I started this apron when I got home from a piece of fabric I got at the Bargain Basement. It helped to pep me back up even though it's such a small project. I did sew it completely by hand.

The pattern from the apron came from the Workwoman's Guide  Plate 11 Figure 14

I used the bib measurements as they were because of the fabric I had left over from cutting the skirt and the waist band.  The ties of the apron ended up being as wide as the finished waistband which isn't how it's supposed to be but it works. The bib pins to the front of your dress so I'll be looking for HA pins in the near future. The leftover fabric will be used for a housewife or other small item. 

The Facts:The Challenge: Extant OriginalsWhat the item is: 1830’s / 1840’s Cooking Apron
Which extant original did you copy: Plate 11 Figure 14 of The Workwoman’s Guide by A Lady
Material: Checked Cotton
Pattern: Plate 11 Figure 14 of The Workwoman’s Guide by A Lady
Notions: Twill Tape Ties and Two Straight Pins
How historically accurate is it? I’d say 85%. I’m sure about my ties being the right size, or color and the Workwoman’s Guide assumes you know stuff we don’t now so the bib size may be out of proportion. Checked linen may also have been more appropriate than cotton but cotton is mentioned in other apron descriptions as being used.
Hours to complete: I think from thinking up the idea to completion is was about 4 hours. My hand sewing is slow.
First worn: Not yet. Have to finish an outfit to go with it.
Total cost: Free. The fabric was from the bargain basement at Costume College 18. The ties and thread were in the stash, so they cost something at some point but it is no longer remembered

1891 Mountain Dress: Skirt and Blouse

This outfit is one of my favorites that I made. The skirt isn't the one that is included in the pattern Ageless Patterns 1094. The skirt was way tooo long and even the facing being attached in the skirt length it was still to long. Instead of fighting with it I made Truly Victorian 299: 1901 Split Skirt out of a wonderful fabric from fabric.com: Season of Wool Solid Chocolate Fabric. It was a dream to sew though a bit on the itchy side so I don't recommend wearing it against the skin. The skirt was made in time for the Historical Sew Monthly Challenge for May: Specific to a Time of Day. The blouse is made out of  Windham Threads of Time Star Stripe Cream Fabric.

As I was making the blouse my brain malfunctioned and I forgot that Ageless patterns does not include allowances for facings or plackets. I improvised a hidden buttonhole placket and surprisingly the blouse fits quite well. My only wish is that the neck was a little bit bigger but with using almost every scrap of the 2.5 yards the pattern called for I don't have enough to redo the collar. The collar and cuffs are interlined with linen to help give the cotton body. One thing about the pattern that fought me was the sleeves. The gathers as they are marked cause the puff of the sleeve to be too far back on the arm hole. I had to gather more of the sleeve head to make it look correct. The blouse was completed in time for the Historical Sew Monthly Challenge for July: Sleeves.

The hat is McCall's Pattern 6975 view G. Finding a correct "Alpine" hat in general is hard but trying to find one to fit a small budget is harder so I went for making my own simpler hat. The hat was made from skirt scraps and I got the pattern for about $5.00 and it's lined with linen scraps. I bought the wire the pattern called for and then promptly forgot to add it but the wool and linen and interfacing seem to give the hat enough body and it was comfortable to wear. Now the boyfriend wants one as will but view H with the taller crown.

The boots are American Duchess as are the stockings. Unders include a modern cami (shock and horror) as I ran out of time to make a proper chemise and closed drawers from Folkwear's Edwardian Undies pattern. The placket on the pattern didn't make sense to me so I improvised. I buttoned my drawers over my corset (corset provided by historicaldesigns on Etsy ) and didn't have an issue using the facilities. I spoke with someone who was wearing split drawers with their wool bicycling bloomers and they said their drawers were baggy enough that no itching in places that shouldn't be itched by wool was occurring. 

The only remaining piece of this outfit is the jacket. I plan on making a mock-up to avoid the problems I had with the blouse. 

Tappity Tap Pants

For the Historical Sew Monthly Challenge for March:  Buttons and Fastenings I made a pair of 1930's tap pants. I used Simplicity Pattern 8510 and a few things surprised me. A: the yoke isn't really a yoke, it's an additional piece that is top stitched down. B: I flat felled all the inside seams by hand because I used linen and I didn't want it to fray. C: with the yoked version putting the buttons holes in was difficult because there were six layers of fabric to go through at some spots. If you used a thinner silk or rayon I'm sure this wouldn't be a problem. I used a zig zag stitch to do the buttonholes instead of a buttonhole stitch because my buttonhole doesn't like me. Abby posted (http://stay-ingalive.blogspot.com/2018/04/1880s-fundy-undies-petticoat-and-corset.html) about using a zig zag stitch instead of a button foot as well. I'm not sure about posting me wearing them but my Valentine's Bear was happy to pose for me.  

Just the Facts:

What the item is: 1930’s tap pants

Material: linen

Pattern:Simplicity Pattern 8510 Misses' Vintage Brassiere and Panties view B with the yoke

Year: 1930’s

Notions: 4 metal buttons

How historically accurate is it? I’d say 95%. It’s a mix of machine and hand sewing with zig zag button holes. I’m not sure linen would have been used for tap pants but they are comfortable

Hours to complete: Four evenings of sewing

First worn: just to check the button positions

Total cost: linen remnant was 8, buttons 2 and thread was in my stash so 10.50 with some linen left over for a small project.

A Petticoat to Keep Me Warm

At Costume College 2017 I wore my 1840's wrapper on Sunday (blog post in the works) and I froze in class. I thought with all the layers I was wearing I would be fine in the air conditioned class rooms but I was wrong. At the Bargain Basement that morning I picked up a table cloth that looked like it would pass for a shawl and a shawl it became. So in preparation for Costume College 2018 I made a flannel petticoat to go under my 1840's things. And it qualifies for the 2018 Historical Sew Monthly Challenge #2: Unders.  A Better picture will be up soon.

Just the Facts

What the item is: Flannel Petticoat to keep me warm.

Material: 3 Yards Red Cotton Flannel

Pattern: Flannel Petticoat from the Workwoman’s Guide

Year: 1830’s & 40’s

Notions: thread, twill tape for ties and hem. 

How historically accurate is it? Should be wool flannel instead of cotton and the threads used are polyester/cotton mix. Plus I added twill tape over the hem since the cotton is a little flimsy but it’s all hand sewn so 85% maybe. 

Hours to complete: a week total but not all at once. 

First worn: only to test hem length, but it is comfortable and WARM.

Cost: I'm thinking around $25, but I didn't actually keep track